7 September 2017: Orth, Austria to Rajka, Hungary (via Slovakia)

September 07, 2017

Mileage: Today-42; Total-468

Route. Approximate route.

We have 160 km to cover to get to Esztergom in 2 days. That’s about 48 miles per day on flat terrain. Stuart is worried about time and considering a train. Given the fine weather today, 60F to start and about 72 as the high, with a 10 mph+ tail wind, we really did not put out much effort. We stopped riding before 3 pm and found a room. Unfortunately, the internet password does not work, so this will be another late-day post. We discovered later that the router is in his home and not in range of our zimmer. We were picking up the neighbor's signal. So, as long as we sat outside in his patio, it worked.

Perhaps this is typical when touring, how to maintain comfortable pace that works for everyone. Early in a tour, I like to rest on arrival, but that goes away after several days as I become accustomed to riding every day. Stuart seems to increasingly need rest on arrival. Nothing wrong with that, just different.

Initially, Stuart led over a rough stretch of trail with and exposed aggregate surface at 13+ mph. I was pushing to keep him in sight, as my smaller Bike Friday 20” wheels sink into every depression. But this afternoon, on smooth paved trail, he barely maintained 10 mph with the tail wind. Thus, the issue about seeking a train. My objection to trains is not the train itself, but trains usually involve a lot of sitting around waiting for the train and then hassles with loading and unloading touring bikes and/or trailers.

The final unknown in Hungary is that the Danube Bike Trail often follows roads rather than hugging the Danube, so navigation might be an issue, particularly when passing thorough Komarno, a larger city. In general, trail markings have been good.

We cycled easily into the center of Bratislava. Stuart opted to relax at a coffee shop while I rode and walked up to visit the hill-top castle complex. Stuart had been to Bratislava before, so it was good of him to wait for me, and steps are not his friend. Stuart has sciatica, a nasty condition, where the nerve is pinched between vertebra. Stuart has tried every remedy except the dreaded surgery. Fortunately, riding and swimming are not an issue.

We were baffled by the parallel trails in Slovakia south of Bratislava. We had no idea which one was for bikes, but no one seemed to care. South of Vienna, the Danube trail is much less used.

Upon arrival in Rajka and finding lodging, I went to the local market. Hungarians now are comfortable and willing to accept forint, their own currency, or euros. We make it a habit to ask if they accept euros or cards. So far, they accept one or the other. The clerk pronounced the forint and euro amount and gave me a receipt, but I didn’t understand either one, hearing or reading. Fortunately, my card with a chip worked, so all was well. Perhaps I’ll look when I get home. It’s curiosity rather than cost, as most items are inexpensive by US standards. I looked at wine in the store, but recognized nothing, so beer was the safest choice. Beer and potato chips.

We stopped at one of the trail-side restaurants and met Francis Swampoll, MD, South African; and Wolfgang Wagner, German, retired Patent attorney. We have met a number of individuals in small touring groups, and a Swiss semi-retired business man in Rajka, where we stopped for coffee and a pastry. I couldn't’ help being amused when Stuart asked a Scottish woman if she had ever been to Scotland.

Dog of the Day. At our Orth B & B.

Breakfast. Yes, Nancy, that's a pretzel. Crisp crust, salt, and soft inside.

Chip-Seal Surface. Rough surfaces like this seem to drop the speed at least 2 mph.

Firewood Piles. Big, not as neat as many that we have seen, but this wood will be cut into smaller pieces.

St. Martinskirche

Our Swiss Friend.

Note the Bad Deutsch town name.

We are on 6. Good signage.

How did Mother Nature drop tree seedlings so uniformly?

Danube Trail Stop. My short beer required a new keg . . .

. . . because Francis and Wolfgang got their large beers first.

Trail side bunker.

Approaching Bratislava, Slovakia

Bratislava Castle

Bratislava Plaza

Bratislava Castle Hill

Bratislava Castle Layout

Interior Courtyard.

Barracks

Back on the Danube Trail

Low Budget Approach

Town Hall

Dog of the Day #2. We inquired about zimmers, and a man rode us to two of them on his bike. There were two, side-by-side, with this Golden at the first, but no master. We scored at the next one, 30 euros for two.