29 August 2017: Vela Luka-Split (ferry); Slatine-Trogir-Marina, Croaia

Mileage: Today-15; Total-130

 Vela Luka to Split via Ferry

 Slatine (Ciovo Island) to Trogir. We took a small ferry from Split to Slatine to avoid the urban traffic of Split, a large city, then cycled the relatively flat, beach-side, two-lane road into Trogir.

Nice ferry rides with limited cycling in the hot afternoon hours.

Darkness settles much earlier this far south. Apartments Vela is directly across the harbor from the ferry port. We used blinking LED lights to increase our visibility to drivers as we cycled the flat roads around the harbor, about 2 miles, to the ferry port to purchase tickets for the 6:15 am ferry and then back for dinner at an Italian restaurant on the waterfront. Then, a stop at the bakery for a few items to take on the 2-hour ferry to Split.

Apartments Vela was our most modern and spacious lodging so far. With two rooms plus bath, each room featured an attached balcony with sea views. Stuart took the bedroom with the double bed; I took the fold-out in the lounge/kitchen with the air conditioner.

Foreign TV is oddly interesting. The channel lineup varies widely by country and establishment, especially the country of origin and currency of program. Our smaller Dubrovnik apartment offered 100’s of channels, including English-language CNN. Apartments Vella offered 5 channels, with 1 or 2 offering English-language programming with subtitles. One channel was showing Ship of Fools, a 1965 movie about the chartered liner carrying 1000 wealthy Jews in 1939 from Germany to Cuba, where they planned to proceed to the USA. Politics and propaganda intervened—they were not permitted to land in Cuba, President Roosevelt also refused entry, the ship returned to Germany, after which they all perished in the camps. The Germans looked like Germans; the Jews were portrayed by famous actors, few appeared to be Jewish. If this were current times, what would Trump do if they were wealthy Hispanics?

Our ferry is similar to the ferries you have probably ridden in the Pacific Northwest: a single car deck, interior seating with a small café, and upper deck open viewing. Very quiet with smooth waters. Quite a contrast with our ferry in 2015 from Aland Island (Finland) to Tallinn, Estonia, that featured numerous lounges, restaurants, cafes, bars, and duty-free shops—a party boat. That ferry had multiple elevators serving 11 levels.

Bela Looks to Split Ferry

The ferry from Vela Luka to Split took about 2 hours. We met Gatis, a 38-year old touring cyclist from Latvia. Gatis had been averaging 80 miles per day, either lightly loaded or sometimes with a support vehicle. This is his last day before he returns via the Split Airport. Having cycled through Split before, he eagerly joined us to find the small ferry to Trogir, close to the Split airport. Following multiple miss-directions from helpful Croatians at the Split harbor front, we located the ferry departure point and had time for an adult beverage. Finding the Split-Trogir ferry departed at 1:00 pm, they suggested we take the earlier Split-Slatine and cycle the 5 miles into Trogir. That was a beautiful option. We cycled about 6 miles into Trogir, had lunch, and then explored the town. Finding no lodging and it being midafternoon, we decided to ride north, finally locating lodging in Marina, a coastal town devoted to boat repar, servicing, and storage.

6:00 am, Vela Luka Ferry

Gatis, 38, Latvian civil engineer, averaging 130 km per day. OK, that is double our average mileage. Big secret, Gatis will propose marriage to his girlfriend of 3 years this autumn.

Dog of the Day. Appeared to be quite well trained, on the ferry to Split.

Sleeping on the ferry rear deck.

Smooth waters to Split

Split to Slatine Ferry. 

Crissy, Newcastle, UK tourist, on the ferry to Slatine, checking out future vacation possibilities.

Gatis, Larry, Stuart—Split to Slatine ferry. Gatis planned to circle the island, then lodge near the airport for his return flight to Riga the next day.

We docked in Slatine, changed into cycling clothes, and leisurely cycled into Trogir, enjoyed lunch on the water, walked about Old Town Trogir, and cycled north along the coastal road, stopping at Marina.

Slatine 

5 Mile cycle from Slatine to Togir

Craft beers available in Trogir

We split a pizza

My Selection. Excellent

Trogir Keep. We did not enter, as it appeared to be filled with chairs for events. 

 The following series of photos are Old Town Trogir.

Beer delivery cart.

Marina offered our first lodging excitement, but some explanation first as I begin to understand Croatian customs. Apartmeni seems to include a kitchen and eating area. Rooms do not, but I’m not sure that is consistent. Apartments seem to be geared to weekly or monthly stays. Free on apartmeni or room signs seems to suggest available, be similar to our vacancy signs.

I inquired at the first place, following the arrow up several flights of stairs, ringing several bells, but never finding what appeared to be reception. I was probably ringing someone’s apartment.

At the next apartment with a Free sign, I rang the bell and we waited. Eventually, a woman appeared on a balcony, speaking nothing we could understand other than euro. Eventually, I got her to show an apartment and type the rate on my phone. It was a dark, dreary place. Meanwhile, a man rolls into the parking lot and verbally attacks Stewart. Seems with 5 spaces available, he wanted to park where Stuart’s bike was parked. Stewart pointed at the Apartmenti sign, but he did not calm down. I was returning with the woman who showed the apartment, they exchanged words, and we decided to leave. He appeared to say skedaddle or scram as we rolled away. Some people should NOT be in the hospitality business.

As the road was lined with places advertising accommodations, I stopped at the next place, no answer, but a man parked across the road (buildings on the right, beach front and parking on the left), approached Stewart, offering an apartment. We wanted to verify that it was accessible by bike, had few stairs, was nearby, and the rate. He enlisted a woman in the nearby snack booth with some English facility. Discerning his apartment was at the top of the hill, and reading her signal that his apartments were not very nice, we were about to ride on, so he called a woman who offered us a decent, nearby apartment at the same rate.

Our Marina Lodging. What a view!

What to do with the rest of the kitchen? The tap water was safe but terrible, like it was softened water. 

Tomorrow, we test the coast road. Judging by the 10 miles from Trogir, the surface is excellent, the hills are moderate, but the traffic is heavy. If traffic is the same, we will likely turn inland towards Bosnia, a route Stuart and John took in 2013. Croatia has definitely been discovered.

Kiwi. Who knew they grew on a vine? Not me.