31 August 2017: Knin, Croatia to Drvar, Bosnia

Mileage: Today-44; Total-239

As shown in the profile, we started with 10 miles of climbing, about 2000 ft, some more around 30 miles, and a long downhill. More on the downhill road conditions in the photos. We needed jackets for the first time, for about 15 minutes. Eating options were limited since we turned inland to sparsely populated areas with numerous abandoned homes and few town or villages. The effects of the 1995 war are evident.

Dog of the Day. Today I saw perhaps 6 different dogs simply hanging out at roadsides. This one was intently gnawing on a large bone and never looked up or paused as we passed.

Abandoned Roadside Restaurant. The large, perhaps 8 foot diameter wood wheel above the door was weathered but still there. Note the open structure to the right, a roof with chimney to keep rain off a smoker or grill, and perhaps the small boy assigned to tend the fire for hours.

Bullet Holes. A common sight in Bosnia, lingering evidence of the fierce fighting in the early 1990s.

Bosnian Levitt Town?

Golubic RR Station. Golubic appeared minimally occupied and difficult to enter from the highway.

War memorials commemorating those killed in the fighting are common, often at or near the place where they died. 

Directly behind the above memorial was one of the best kept vineyards yet seen. The middle building has numerous bullet holes.

Shepherdess leads her flock  

Irrigation channel bridges over the creek.

Harvesting and sorting olives.

Leaving the Dovidenja province/county of Croatia.

Bosnia Border Crossing. As Croatia is in the EU and Bosnia is not, you exit Croatia customs and then enter via Bosnia customs/border police. We have seen no signs of immigrants.

Western Bosnia's major industry appears to be forestry and forest products.

Another Spit BBQ. Stuart recalled a restaurant shortly after the border crossing. The restaurant offers only coffee, sodas, and beer. Nothing solid, not even the usual snacks. The adjacent grocery was closed.

Looking back into Croatia from the Bosnian heights.

Miryanka and Milaslav. Definitely good angels. Near the end of the long climb, about 19 miles into our ride and crossing into Bosnia, I stopped under the large shade tree and roadside spring to wait for Stuart. Milaslav owns an athletic shoe specially store in Banya Luka. I was running low on water and this was a spring-fed fountain. We chatted, they offered me a sandwich, and then they left another for Stuart. They had passed us on the way up. Pitty party? They were returning from their holidays on the Croatian Coast.

Sandwich and our route highlighted in blue on the left.

Roadside Memorial Spring

Dog of the Day #2. Just down the road from the fountain, this dog and sibling first barked defensively, and then hung out at roadside. The local dog seems to be some sort of medium-sized black hound.

 That's our road on the far side. I lost track of the number of turns as we climbed about 2,000 feet.

Looking west towards Croatia from Bosnia.

Once over the border mountain range, Bosnia offers a large, open, dry valley on the eastern side of the mountains. 

Orthodox Church in Bosansko Grahovo.

Bosansko Grahovo's municipal buildings damaged in the 1995 war. No apparent attempt to repair or demolish. Imagine growing up and living with this grim reminder in the center or your home town. We wondered why more of these buildings have not been razed.

Bosnia

Mosaic Monuments. No idea of the significance.

Where's the plant? All flower.

Planned Burn? We saw a number of these creeping fires consuming the underbrush and occasionally a tree. Conditions are tinder dry, but no one appeared concerned about these fires. So, we ride through the smell of a wood BBQ without the meat cooking smell.

Bunker. 

Mine Field. I've spotted a few of these from the roadside, including behind the bunker. We do not venture from the roadway. Oddly, one way to know a sheltered area at the roadside is safe is littered toilet paper. Scattered wads=safe.

Scarred Road Surface. An eagerly anticipated, 4-mile long, 2,000 ft. winding descent into Drvar became an 8-mph hand, numbing experience. 

Drvar, Bosnia

Drvar downtown building

Drvar Orthodox Cathedral

Classy Restroom Signs. (Yes, below.)

Our Drvar Hotel. Hot rose paint seems to be popular in Bosnia.

My First Bosnian Evening Meal 

The menu was entirely in the cyrillic alphabet. The pleasant woman running the small restaurant was willing but spoke no English. I started signing that we wanted to eat, but could understand nothing she said. She resorted to pulling items out of her freezer as I pointed and nodded. I was willing to simply select a meat, but Stuart was adamant to know what kind. His animal noises connected with her. Classy but effective.

Unfortunately, I did not bring my camera. Our meals were identical. Two, small pork chops were served on an 8" diameter roll with the consistency of nan bread but the appearance of ciabatta bread. Accompanying them was a side of fries and a plate of yoghurt, fresh sliced tomato, two types of finely sliced slaw, and cucumber slices. I thought it was excellent; Stuart ate the chops and fries with ketchup. The total cost, with one beer each—about 12 USD, both meals.