4 September 2017: Maribor, Slovenia to Sankt Anna am Aigen, Austria

September 04, 2017

Mileage: Today-60; Total-364

Our Route. Approximates our route, as we tried to follow cycling paths whenever available.

The forecast for 7 am was 46F, so we decided to start about 8, full sun and about 50F, that means tights, light jacket, and perhaps long-fingered gloves. Stuart agreed to follow my friend Martin's recommendation: At Spielfeld take the Muhrradweg (River Muhr cyclig path) to Radkesburg, turn north on the Eurovelo 9 that goes from Radkesburg to Vienna, crossing through the Styrian spa region.

We cycled north from Maribor about 12 miles to Spielfeld, where we stumbled on the Muhr River Cycle Path, marked R2, which seems to coincide with Vela Europe Route 9. Most of the path was paved with some stretches of gravel and a few puddles. All in all, excellent cycling. The path was well marked, with few spots of confusion on our part. Many tours and routes are established in this region. We saw many cyclists, but they were seldom under 60.

The riding shifted from flat and rolling cruising to STEEP when we started looking for lodging. We left the trail and started inquiring at each bar, restaurant, and similar establishment. After several attempts, referrals, and helpful phone calls from locals, we found a room at a small, family winery. We even got an escort. When asked, nearly everything is nearby, 5 minutes, or 200 meters. 5 minutes in what? A car— but a seldom loaded touring bike. To shorten the story, the lodging that was a few minutes down the road was probably 3 km, maybe 2 miles, over steeply rolling hills with 12% grades.

We arrived, introductions, Karen is our hostess, and were shown a place to park bikes inside, and then offered a glass of wine. This IS a vineyard. Excellent dry resealing and sauvignon blanc.

Faced with the prospect of riding back to a restaurant, even with unloaded bikes, I persuaded Karen, our hostess, to prepare a cold meal. The distinction was either a hot meal or a cold meal. A hot meal is traditional in the Styrol midday and is much more trouble. After 60 miles or 100 km, we cared less about what than how far. Karen agreed, suppling traditional dark bread (made by Karen), ham, sausage, cheese, tomatoes, sweet peppers, smoked bacon pate, pepperoni, and more. Stuart enjoyed their fresh grape juice, I sampled their red wines. Didn't want to insult the host!

Tree Branch Tradition. I recall that mounting a tree branch on a house is a tradition, but not why. Could not find a web explanation. Anyone?

Leaving Maribor. Note the Bike Route Sign. The USA could take a hint.

Just another beautiful church in morning light.

Small Church/Chapel. We see any of these along the road, isolated, or in a village.

Great R2 Trail Riding. Paved trail with sorghum on the left, usually chopped for cattle feed.

The Muhr or Mur Trail, marked R2 and as Euro Velo # 9

Slovenia-Austria Border Crossing. While they waved us through, these crossing have been reopened due to refugee concerns. On the train, they looked under seats where a person might hide but did not look into luggage for potential illegal substances.

If only RAGBRAI could look like this.

Typical sign along the trail.

We were confused about the squash or pumpkins being smashed and scattered in the fields in Austria. Perhaps this explains some it: http://www.cooksinfo.com/styrian-pumpkins.

I do not know oil or seeds are being extracted, but missed gourds are speared and placed back on the spiked wheel on the right. Bits are tossed out the back.

Lined up to be crushed.

Seems they have group rides over this route.

Another tiny church.

Almost too many signs.

Perhaps the Austrian Alternative to de-tasseling. They seem to sheer off the tassels. De-tasseling is common when breeding seed corn. I've also seen Pioneer Seed Corn signs, just as in Spain. Good old Iowa corn brand.