2 September 2017: Behac to Slunj, Bosnia
Mileage: Today-12; Total-299 (20 by pickup not included)
After yesterday's rain, we packed and then lubed the bike chains at 7:10 am in limited sunshine. The temperature dropped suddenly and dark rain clouds were visible in the northwest, our planned direction. We purchased pastries for breakfast and as the mist turned to rain, we cycled towards Croatia.
As we climbed towards the Croatia border, thunder sounded and the rain intensified. Mechanical issues, especially flats, often occur when it's raining as bits of broken glass and wire float to the surface, so I tried to stay close to Stuart. I kept getting ahead, was cycling very slowly, and generating so little heat I worried about staying warm. At one point, we stopped and I put on a long-sleeve Smart Wool shirt under my jersey. I was already wearing a rain jacket and pants. After the Croatia border crossing, (passports, please), Stuart suggested we stop at the first restaurant, welcome relief from the heavy rain. So, 12 miles in, we stopped at a place where the owner, spotting our bikes, kindly raised his outdoor patio umbrella to offer a place to park our bikes out of the rain. We hoped the rain would leassen, but it continued in waves, heavy, lighter, and then heavy again. We were in a major storm that had blown in off the Adriatic Sea from the west.
Our next probable lodging, Slunj, was 20 miles ahead. Stuart decided to seek a ride, spotting a pickup in the parking lot. After some discussion, Stuart persuaded Phillip to take us to Slunj, offering Phillip his remaining Bosnian marks. One of the oddities when traveling in countries with unique currencies is securing exactly the amount needed and spending them before leaving. Phillip accepted Stuart's offer, and later confessed it was his uncle's pickup. Given the rain limiting outside work, it was a nice financial windfall for Phillip. He dropped us in central Slunj, across from a good hotel. The Sunday forecast is for more rain, one forecast on the BBC noting the area is likely to get a month's quota of rain today and tomorrow. However, we have found a nearby bus stop that appears to go to Karlovac, our intended destination for a train or all the way to Zagreb, where we can get a train to nearly any regional destination. So, we are now hanging out and drying wet gear after sharing a pizza for lunch.
Note to self: First noticed on my Louisiana ride in June, rain leaks into my trailer from the top, not when riding through standing water. Before my next tour, I MUST remember to drill small weep holes in the case where the water can drain without flowing inside the case. Tomorrow, while my clothes are in zip lock bags, I'll put my entire duffel into a trash bag—unless we catch a bus northward. Some busses accept bikes in the luggage compartment, some do not.
Perhaps you have noticed fewer photos. Even when riding, I was reluctant to stop for photos in heavy rain. For example, I missed photos of another shepherdess holding an umbrella; numerous potential dogs of the day; more minarets; and a stuccoed wall with embedded tools, bicycles, bicycle parts, and agricultural implements.
12 miles by bicycle; then 20 by pickup.
After yesterday's rain, we packed and then lubed the bike chains at 7:10 am in limited sunshine. The temperature dropped suddenly and dark rain clouds were visible in the northwest, our planned direction. We purchased pastries for breakfast and as the mist turned to rain, we cycled towards Croatia.
As we climbed towards the Croatia border, thunder sounded and the rain intensified. Mechanical issues, especially flats, often occur when it's raining as bits of broken glass and wire float to the surface, so I tried to stay close to Stuart. I kept getting ahead, was cycling very slowly, and generating so little heat I worried about staying warm. At one point, we stopped and I put on a long-sleeve Smart Wool shirt under my jersey. I was already wearing a rain jacket and pants. After the Croatia border crossing, (passports, please), Stuart suggested we stop at the first restaurant, welcome relief from the heavy rain. So, 12 miles in, we stopped at a place where the owner, spotting our bikes, kindly raised his outdoor patio umbrella to offer a place to park our bikes out of the rain. We hoped the rain would leassen, but it continued in waves, heavy, lighter, and then heavy again. We were in a major storm that had blown in off the Adriatic Sea from the west.
Our next probable lodging, Slunj, was 20 miles ahead. Stuart decided to seek a ride, spotting a pickup in the parking lot. After some discussion, Stuart persuaded Phillip to take us to Slunj, offering Phillip his remaining Bosnian marks. One of the oddities when traveling in countries with unique currencies is securing exactly the amount needed and spending them before leaving. Phillip accepted Stuart's offer, and later confessed it was his uncle's pickup. Given the rain limiting outside work, it was a nice financial windfall for Phillip. He dropped us in central Slunj, across from a good hotel. The Sunday forecast is for more rain, one forecast on the BBC noting the area is likely to get a month's quota of rain today and tomorrow. However, we have found a nearby bus stop that appears to go to Karlovac, our intended destination for a train or all the way to Zagreb, where we can get a train to nearly any regional destination. So, we are now hanging out and drying wet gear after sharing a pizza for lunch.
Note to self: First noticed on my Louisiana ride in June, rain leaks into my trailer from the top, not when riding through standing water. Before my next tour, I MUST remember to drill small weep holes in the case where the water can drain without flowing inside the case. Tomorrow, while my clothes are in zip lock bags, I'll put my entire duffel into a trash bag—unless we catch a bus northward. Some busses accept bikes in the luggage compartment, some do not.
Source of breakfast
Intimidating weather. Brief sun for a few minutes promptly shifted to rain, and then heavy rain.
Onward into the storm.
Leaving Bihac. They love that rose paint.
Onward to Slunj. No purists here. I had the gear to ride to Slunj, but not at 5 mph. That noted, this is a vacation with fun as the objective, and while riding rain is doable, it wasn't necessary. 12-hours later, it's still thundering and raining.
Phillip. Today's good angel, entrepreneur, and all around nice guy.
Perhaps you have noticed fewer photos. Even when riding, I was reluctant to stop for photos in heavy rain. For example, I missed photos of another shepherdess holding an umbrella; numerous potential dogs of the day; more minarets; and a stuccoed wall with embedded tools, bicycles, bicycle parts, and agricultural implements.
Poster in Slunj Bar/Coffee House. Probably issued by Karlovačko, a Croatian brewery that claims ties to an 1862 antecedent. Just marketing on Karlovacko's behalf.
Challenge of Reading Bus and Rail Schedules. I'm guessing that DA indicates a departure, and NE that the bus does not run. Then the left column lists the days of the week, but where do they start? We think Nedjelja is Sunday, a day with a reduced schedule. So, we think our first two options tomorrow depart at 7:35 and 10:45. While looking at the schedule, a man entered the small booth but refused to talk. As Bob Mundle would have said: What's up with that?
We returned a 6 pm and confirmed that the bus departs Slunj tomorrow, Sunday at 7:35 am, under 2 hours to Zagreb. The bus station is a 15-minute walk to the train station, at which we will determine where to go to get within a 6-day ride of Budapest. At least, I think that's the plan.
So, with a good web connection, much of our gear is dry except for today's laundry. I am now catching up, streaming NPR Morning Edition, and then KRCL.
Love the poster you found in the Slunj coffee bar; and I can almost smell that beautiful bread case.
ReplyDeleteStay cool, dry and enjoy tomorrows ride!
Denise