1 September 2017: Drvar, to Behac, Bosnia

Mileage: Today-50; Total-287

We caught a weather forecast that appeared to show rain, but we could not understand when. The day started cool and overcast. We finished the 10-miles initial climb before compelled to pull out jackets. I stopped to add fenders at one point, but the light rain and overcast make comfortable riding.

Breakfast Omelet Included

 General State of Repair in the Balkan Countries

After about 10 days, a rant on broken facilities. Every room and establishment seems to have something broken or missing. Towel racks are missing or fall apart. Some appliances work. One room fridge freezer had so much ice that we could not insert anything wider than 2 cm. About half the freezer doors are missing. Two apartments had 2-burner stovetops, but one working burner each. In one, the fridge was simply unplugged and left open. Often outlets do not work, lamps when present are missing the light bulb. Most towels are excellent for removing calluses. We have yet to see a bar of soap, but most have liquid soap or dish soap available.

While things are broken or non-functional, nearly everyone smokes. Individuals signal their breaks by sitting stoically with their pack beside them, lighter on pack, implying: Do not bother me. I am on a deserved break. With the predominant outdoor seating, it's hard to avoid 2nd hand smoke.

Our Drvar Hotel is typical. Consider the men's restroom off the main lobby.

3 Modern urinals. One blocked off.

4 toilets, 1 blocked off. Note the missing cover.

4 sinks, 1 non-working, 1 missing a faucet handle.

Drvar Main Street

View back into the Drvar valley. Note the lingering wood smoke from small forest fires.

Trash. America has plenty of roadside trash, but the quantity and frequency of roadside trash suggest that people are charged for every kilo of trash. Every scenic overview or roadside attraction that prompts a stop appears to be an opportunity to discard. Often the trash is carefully bundled in a plastic shopping bag, handles securely tied, and then tossed. Yards are filled with building debris. The war ended in 1995. The roads are excellent, but why not clean up the rubble. Perhaps even demolish some of the buildings, especially the public buildings. Enough ranting?

The Great Smokey Mountains of Bosnia. Beautiful scenery and riding.

We frequently hear chain saws and see saw mills.

Russian Cemetery. Many Russians died in Bosnia, driving out the Germans in WW2. The dead were buried and then interred after the War, leaving the monument.

Nearby Russian and Bosnian-Serbian War Memorial

 Route Options at the top of the 10-mile climb out of Drvar. Ours was the 50 km to Bihac.

1st Stop for coffee, just over the climb. Two nice garden plots (below) inside the KOVA patio.

Next door to the KIVA

Descending through Bosnian forrest. 

Bosnia

Entering Bosansko Petrovac

Pink/rose is popular.

First minaret in Bosansko Petrovac. Today is Eid Al-Adha, celebrated on the tenth day of Dhu al-Hijjah and lasts for three days, during which Muslims usually sacrifice a sheep and distribute its meat in 3 parts: among family, friends, and the poor. For a better explanation: NY Times Story

The implication for us is that all markets are closed. However, all gambling parlors are open, many taverns, and a few restaurants.

This family told us about the Muslim holiday. They lived next to the closed restaurant in Bosansko Petrovac, source of the boots and BBQ grills.

Shepherd with umbrella.

50-percent better than Motel 6?

Unusual house for Bosnia.

Increasingly better farm land.

Honeybee subdivision

A Bosnian policeman insisted we visit this national park. Stuart (today, not to the cop): Who needs to cycle 21 km to see trees?

Dog of the Day #1. As I waited for Stuart at the Park entrance, this dog approached, regarding me as his new best friend. Then two other dogs approached, then Stuart. All dogs in Bosnia appear to be hungry, approaching everyone for food. Most leave disappointed. Seeing this dog was following, I accelerated to minimize dragging him and the other two dogs down the highway. Stuart, following, was concerned about an accident, so he cycled slowly and they kept up, repeatedly crossing the highway, which forced an oncoming car to run off the road. I missed it all, proceeding to the next pack of sheep just down the road.

Sheep Guard Dogs of the Day. This mature dog approached as I neared the herd, seemed to understand I was not a threat, and turned back to the sheep. I spotted four dogs, no shepherd.

But this younger dog came all the way to the top of the road berm, growled his warning, and returned. 

Dog of the Day #3. One of many hanging about a C-store as we entered Bihac.

Traditional Bosnian Hay Stacks. The hay is piled about a pole. The stems angle outwards to shed water. In contrast, the traditional Slovenian method is to stack the hay on cross-bars, under a roof shelter.

Our Bihac Lodging, City Bridge Guest House. Very nice, easy to find, and helpful host.

Easy to Find. Just look behind the bank. Really great location.

Fortified Tower, central Bihac

Dated at 1200, what remains of a castle complex.

Una River, Bihac, Bosnia

Bihac Tower, central Old Town

Una River, view downriver

Una River, view upriver

View of Una River from our restaurant.

Larry's Meal. About $8.50 USD. I took the waiter's advice: local trout, boiled potatoes, and Swiss chard in olive oil, garlic, and cheese.

Stuart's Meal. That's the bread I was trying to describe that we had in Drvar.