27 August 2017: Ston to Korcula, Croatia

Mileage: Today-40; Total-115

Steep, Hot, and Beautiful

Should have started earlier, a typical touring sentiment. Mornings are wonderful, nearly always 70F, but as soon as the sun appears over the horizon, the heat builds fast and we have yet to see a cloud.


We started the day with OJ, coffee, and yogurt in the medieval street outside our apartment, strolled about for a few photos, and a stop at the pasteria or bakery. Should have started earlier.
Perspective. On Day 1, we rode to Montenegro. Day 2, back to Dubrovnik. Day 3, Dubrovnik to Ston on lower Peljesac Island. Day 4, Ston to Korcula, the city, at the eastern end of Korcula Island. Day 5, Across Korcula to Vela Luka at the western end of the island.

We did not look at the profile, just relied on a paper map. The map showed multiple 8-percent grades, with a short 14-percent near the end. We were dreading the 14-percent while the repeated 8-percents nearly finished us off. The hot climb from mile 17 to 24 was one of the most challenging I can remember. With no water and limited shade at the summit and a sign advertising a tavern, I coasted downhill to the tavern, dismounted, drenched myself with the remaining water, then ran water over my head in the bathroom sink. Stuart followed about 45 minutes later, having walked a portion of the climb, and then was saved by a good angel, an American, living on this island, with a cooler full of iced water bottles. After a 1.5 hour break, lots of water, and 3 slices of charity pizza, we proceeded to Orabec, luckily caught the departing ferry to Korcula, and found a room via Tourist Information. I'll leave the remainder to the numerous photos. Truly a beautiful, exhausting, rewarding day of bicycle touring. Only 40 miles, but we're geezers. (I'll admit it; Stuart probably will not.)

Day 4. Peljesac Island




Peljesac Island is largely devoted to wine grapes and then olives for olive oil. Wineries vary from simple to elaborate, and they all offer tasting, some gratis. However, serious wine tasting, or even casual, does not mix that well with bicycle touring in heat and steep terrain.

Plavac Mali is the predominant grape varietal. Probably related to zinfandel, if in California, and pinotage if in Italy or South Africa.





Selling oysters from the oyster beds shown below.

Approaching Drace and Janjina on the shore of Peljesac Island.

Interesting repurposing

Grape orchards mixed with scrub brush.

Seeing water on the right of the photo, and then water on the left of the photo does mean that we had to climb over the spine of the island in between these views.


Eric and Wai. Americans from New York, they were driving with their pre-teen children. Eric initiated a conversation, having passed us on the road. Seeing us cycling had started a conversation with their children about cycling and touring. Anticipating Stuart's arrival, I thought Stuart and I could share a pizza. I asked about it's quality, and they insisted I take a slice; their daughter decided she preferred the soup. Eric is a 28-year Merck scientist who is now helping universities commercialize their findings. Wai's Chinese, land-owning grandparents were forced to flee China to Taiwan after Mao's Great March. Wai was educated in Taiwan before emigrating to the US and meeting Eric. Eric offered to go in search of Stuart (resting with his good angel at the summit) if he failed to arrive.

Beautiful but somewhat forest fire obscured view.

Thinking?

Wine Vendor

Stuart descending in the distance

Departing Orebic, Peljesac, Island

Approaching the walled city of Korcula, eastern Korcula Island.

Korcula Square. This one's for John K.

Western city gate, Korcula.

 The streets of Korcula, often described as a mini-Dubrovnik.


Bishop's Entrance

Birthplace of Marco Polo. Marketing, marketing, marketing.

Dog of the Day. Very stick possessive, our host dog. We booked a room at the local TI(Tourist Information). The TI agent recommended a fabulous place, only 3 km. Stuart: Absolutely not. Something in Korcula. We did have to ride part way up the hill to meet our host, our third escort to our lodging.


My Excellent Fried Calamari Dinner

Taekwondo Exibition, Sunday evening, Korcula waterfront

Cautionary Words, Korcula.






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