23-24 August 2017: Travel and Cipili Airport (DBV to Hereg-Novi, Montenegro

Mileage: Today-18, Total:-18

23-24 August included a long travel day, 20 hours in airplanes and airports, 2 hours preparing to ride, then 18 miles in 2+ hours with stops for border crossings and directions.

My Bozeman-Minneapolis and Minneapolis-Paris flights were on-time or early. Per Stuart’s truism about the good angel/bad angel when traveling, I have 5 hours in Paris-CDG. Ample time for two checked bags to transfer—ample time for them to be waylaid. Delta booked my Croatia Airlines flight from Paris to Dubrovnik (single itinerary), checked the bike and bag to Dubrovnik, but cannot check me in for the Dubrovnik flight nor issue the boarding pass.

The CDG airport has 10 terminals, so I bussed to 2D, arriving before 8 am for my 12:05 pm flight. So, out to arrivals, wait for the gate agent to arrive 2 hours before the flight, hopefully verify my luggage was transferred, and back through security.

So, 45 minutes later, Croatia Airlines finally managed to find my itinerary, issue a boarding pass, and hopefully my bags transferred. Back through French passport control (Yes, stamped into and out of France within 2 hours), and back at departure gate 66 3 hours later. So perhaps the 5-hour transfer at CDG was the good angel at work.

Good angel: I arrive in Dubrovnik Airport on-time, customs was short, as I stepped into the baggage area, my red duffel appeared, and the bike case was not far behind. Seems that while I arrived a few minutes before Stuart, I had baggage earlier because it was standard rather than oversized. I enjoyed the usual Bike Friday transformers act, assembling the bike and trailer amidst curious onlookers.

Ready to Depart Cipili Airport, about 4:30 pm for the ride to Montenegro. Stuart ships his standard touring bike in a box. My folding Bike Friday and assembled trailer is in the background.

We left the airport for Montenegro about 4:30 pm. The road surface was excellent, traffic was OK. As Montenegro, is not an EU member, we encountered long vehicle entry lines for Croatia departure and Montenegro entry. However, cyclists are allowed to proceed. We will have to repeat this tomorrow as we ride to Dubrovnik through the vehicle exhaust fumes. We encountered on major climb on the border.

This establishment, near the Croatia-Montenegro border, advertised accommodations in nearly every language. THat's a variable-bed BBQ on the left.

Dog of the Day was wandering about the Croatia border crossing. Off duty here, without a handler, she still inspected Stuart's bike for illicit substances.  

Wild Boar Warning. We saw many of these along a 10-mile stretch. Most had a distance stated, but we failed to spot any.

Hereg-Novi is an Adriatic beach resort town. The 50+ crowd looks to be Soviet vacationers, as many appear to be in poor health and financial condition. We diverted from the main highway to a bike/pedestrian promenade. Good riding, shorter route, but strollers were oblivious.

Our hotel is Apartments Forte Mare, Hereg-Novi, Montenegro. I texted the hotel several times regarding progress, but we would not have found it without assistance. My pre-set Garmin course to the hotel proved accurate, but we did not yet trust it. We stopped numerous times for directions (Yes, that’s two men asking.) We would not have found it without assistance.

Marta walked down the hill to escort us.

Apartments Forte Mare, Hereg-Novi

In the end, a local called the hotel and their representative met us at the sea front and escorted us to the hotel, up about 75 steps. With loaded touring bikes, that’s always two trips, either bike and panniers or bike and trailer. If the large number signed lodging of all types continues as we progress up the Coast, we will not book ahead to eliminate the hassle of finding the hotel.

Which Fork in the Road? Our apartment forced us to choose paths ranging from 40 to 75 steps. Each requires two trips, one for the bike and one for the gear.

Our apartment is excellent: kitchen, small washing machine, couch, double and single beds, small outside patio. Departing in the morning requires either 50 steps up or 75 steps down.

Departure Route. Only 40 steps with a bakery nearby.

An excellent restaurant was at the base of the steps. Stuart’s Serbian wienerschnitzel was rolled, breaded, and deep fried. My pork chop included 3 boneless pork chops, fries, and a side of grilled vegetables. Draft 500 ml pints were 2 euros, so the meal for two including 4 beers was 30 euros with tip. Sorry, John, no food pics.

Evening Restaurant. Every child has a smart phone.

Yes, Nancy, Montenegrins have popcorn. I opted for the gelato.